One of the most frequently asked questions in the skincare industry is, “Is expensive skincare better?” Whether people ask this outright or phrase it differently, it remains a valid and important query.
Some high-end skincare brands justify their hefty price tags with elaborate stories, but unless the tale is worthy of a Broadway production, one might question the rationale behind such expenses.
There isn’t a simple answer to whether expensive skincare is better. There are affordable brands that are effective and luxurious, international brands that fail to deliver. Understanding the factors that influence the cost of skincare products can shed some light on this matter.
Why is Some Skincare More Expensive?
Several factors contribute to the high cost of some skincare products:
- Formulation: Developing a product that delivers active ingredients, maintains a pleasant texture, and performs effectively involves extensive research and numerous trials, all of which are costly. Developing a truly original formulation requires a team of highly qualified individuals, many months to create.
- Testing: Many tests are optional but add value, such as ocular testing, dermatological testing, and certifications like cruelty-free or vegan status. Add in years of group trials, product revisions and retests and the costs easily spiral. Some of these tests are not "one-offs" and need to be redone for each new batch that is manufactured.
- Patented Ingredients: Patented ingredients, backed by independent scientific evidence, come at a premium. Some patented ingredients are licensed on a subscription-like basis by major pharmaceutical companies to the skincare brand at a premium rate.
- High-Quality Ingredients: Pure vitamins, botanical extracts, and potent antioxidants are expensive, especially when formulated to be effective and tested safe for skincare use.
- Packaging: Effective packaging that maintains the freshness and efficacy of active ingredients, such as airtight containers, pressure/airlift bottles can also add to the cost.
- Texture and Appearance Enhancers: Ingredients that improve the feel and look of the product, ensuring consistent use and better results, also increase the price.
- Logistics: The cost of sourcing ingredients and packaging from various parts of the world and distributing the final product can be significant. Also changes in trade relations or outright conflicts, can rapidly alter the price of a single ingredient.
How to Determine if Your Expensive Skincare is Worth It
To ensure you're paying for quality rather than just a brand name, investigate the ingredients listed on the product packaging. The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list on the back of your skincare product shows ingredients in order of their concentration, starting with the highest.
For instance, if you're purchasing a product for its vitamin C content, you want to see this ingredient listed in the first half of the ingredients list. However, remember that some effective ingredients, like retinol and certain acids, are proven to be beneficial in their lower concentrations.
A little research can reap huge dividends. For example: some patented ingredients such as "Biophytex", while licensed for use in anti-aging products, is rarely listed on product packaging due to the trademark owners limiting use of its name to only their brand. So a little google-fu may be needed to decipher some INCI lists. If you are still unsure, simply email the brand. The best ones stand behind their products and are keen to assist you in making an informed choice.
Is Cheap Skincare Bad?
Affordable skincare can still be effective, but there may be compromises, such as simpler packaging or fewer beneficial secondary ingredients. The key is to understand what you want from a product. For example, a basic moisturiser may be inexpensive and provide temporary hydration but might lack long-term benefits such as antioxidant protection.
There are many brands that produce simple, cheap and effective skincare. They will however often follow the well trodden path of generic formulations. This is to save time and money on development and testing. If you see a start-up brand launch 8 new products every month it is likely a series of formulations that have been on the market for many years. While it may do the job initially, you may find it lacks most of the essentials you'd want from your long-term skincare.
Conclusion
Expensive skincare isn’t immediately an indicator of "better", but understanding what goes into a product can help you make informed decisions. By examining the ingredients you can determine whether a product is worth its price. Remember, effective skincare is about the right ingredients in the right formulations, not just a high price tag.
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